I LOVED this park.
Fun 4x4 trails, huge views, loads of aboriginal art, funky natural sandstone sculptures and peace, glorious peace.
Getting to the Mt Moffat section of the Carnarvon National park is a dedicated trip as it is not on the road to anywhere.
From the main visitor centre of the Carnarvon Gorge it is a solid 4 hours drive, with the last 100kms or so of the route being on dirt roads.
Slab Hut
Make sure you stop and check out this cut wooden slab hut. It sits beside the road on the route to the park, before you actually reach the park entrance.
I show you through this delightful hut in the video at the end of this post, and I think you will love the walk-through the hut.
The roads into the park are most likely impassible in the wet, and in fact, the sign at the ranger station in the park provides advice on how long to wait for the ground to dry after rain.
Things to see and so in the park.
At the sandstone entrance to the park there are quite a short walks to sites, and having visited them all I recommend them all.
I will share my exploration of each of these sites here with you now, and in more detail in the little video.
The Looking Glass
Distance: 1.9km return or part of a 5.8km circuit walk. Time: allow 1 hour or 3 hours if part of circuit walk.
The walking trail did not actually lead up to the arch shown in the image below, but rather lead to a much smaller rock on the flat that also had been carved through.
However I set my sights on getting up to that hole-in-the-rock and set off, leaving the trail and scrambling up the hillside to a ledge on the bluff.
I was rewarded with reaching my destination and enjoying the views from this elevated site.
I had fun exploring the bluff, and even found an empty snake skin tucked into one of the nooks in the sandstone.
Join me in the video at end of post as I explore these bluffs
This natural cave has in the past been used as a burial site, with the stones at the front intended to close off and protect the site. Sadly this one seems to have been raided.
And here is another one.
These sites were not on the main trail, but I found them by exploring off trail, which is one of the reasons I really enjoyed this section of the national park - the ability to explore off trail.
Wonderful aboriginal rock art - throughout the park
Quoting the National park guide: "Aboriginal rock art is evidence of people's connection with the land that stretches back for at least 19,000 years. All of Mount Moffatt is a living cultural landscape of significant importance to the Traditional Custodians".
The Tombs
This is the first site with aboriginal art within the park entrance, it is an easy stroll to reach the site and very rewarding.
"More than 400 stencil motifs (images) decorate the walls of a sandstone shelter below the bluff of sandstone known as The Tombs. This entire area is a sacred burial site for Traditional Custodians".
I am not sure how keen I would be to stand against the rock wall while my tribe members threw pigment tainted spit against the wall (and presumably me) to create this stencil!
It is a real privilege to have access to visit these sacred sites.
Being there on a day when there were no others travelers also allowed me to take my time and enjoy the stillness of the location.
Yes. the 'Art Gallery' at the Gorge was a more spectacular bluff and had more art, but
I had a much richer experience and appreciation for the sites in my time spent in this park.
It was heartbreaking to learn that burial sites had in the past been raided for the shrouds made from the bark of the Budgeroo Tree.
The Chimneys
Look at these!
The sandstone has been carved into such a variety of shapes in the park.
Although the weather was stunningly beautiful during my time in the park, these shapes are testament to it's influence over the sandstone.
Kookaburra Cave
From the title I was expecting a large cave in which Kookaburra live, what I discovered instead was another 'shelter' with numerous carvings and stencil art.
Marlong Arch
I walked the trail to the Marlong Arch early in the morning and it was a fabulous time to see it, with the low morning light showing through. I had no idea to expect as I began the trail as the arch is not visible when you begin the trail, so rewarding to see this magnificent sandstone arch.
I explored the other side of the arch reasonably extensively, discovering numerous nooks and crannies carved into the rock by the weather.
Lot's Wife
A short walk from the road will lead you to this pinnacle of sandstone rising out of the flat terrain in which it is set.
Cathedral Rock
A sandstone bluff over looking the surrounding land. The trail leads to the base of the bluff, but wanting to get closer I scrambled/climbed up higher onto the bluff itself and got close to the texture of the rock.
Rotary Shelter
Taking the High Country Drive I headed up up and up the 4x4 track to the top of the mountain.
Lulu and I did have to drag a medium sized tree off the road and I share that effort with you in the video.
Room with a view
I loved camping at the Rotary Shelter, this really my idea of a fantastic camping spot: flat site, elevated and great views.
Truly a room with a view, and a great place to dry the washing I had done by hand the previous afternoon!
Stunning views from further up the trail, I parked Lulu up and enjoyed getting out on my mountain-bike for the rest of the trail, although I had to push my bike up quite a few of the hills, there were that steep!
Just before dark I walked the 2kms from my camp site to the top viewing area to watch the sunset. I spent a couple of hours listening to the day close, insects coming awake and Dingo howling.
Wildlife at Top Moffat Camping area
I did not spend a night at this camping area, but rather used it as a middle-of-the-day rest area. It is a large flat shady camping area that I can imagine could be very popular. I had it to myself while I was there and enjoyed seeing the wildlife going about their day.
Do I recommend visiting this park?
Most certainly YES.
I loved my time there. really loved it!
Note - the camping areas are all bush camping, with the Dragonelly & Top Moffat sites have a long-drop toilet and some running water, but other sites were true bush camping with no facilities.
Be aware of any rain that may be forecast and be prepared to stay a while if you become trapped by rain-closed-roads....
Join me in exploring sandstone bluff's, finding little caves, towing a tree off the road and much more here in this little video:
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